The leather industry depends on the availability of raw materials, which in turn is regulated by the animal population, the off-take ratio and the weight per hide and skin recovered. Between 1994 and 1996, 75% of the bovine herd was located in developing countries, which produce 56% of hides on a numerical basis and 43% of the world hide output by weight.
The largest disparity between population and output of hides occurs in Africa, which holds more than 10% of the worlds cattle but contributed during the period only 4.5% of the total hide output due to low levels of off-take ratio, poor handling in the field and price policies.
In the case of sheep and goatskins, the output coming from developing countries accounted in both cases for similar proportions to their global stock in numerical terms, 59% in sheepskins and 95% in goatskins (FAO 1998).
Sheep and goatskins represent 6% of the total leather supply in the world. Thirty percent of sheepskins come from three countries, New Zealand, Australia and the former Soviet Union. Most of the goatskins (3% of the total leather raw material) come from developing countries, mainly China, India Pakistan and tropical Africa.
In the period 1994-96 the global bovine population of some 1,477 million head yielded approximately 5.5 million tons of raw hides on a wet salted basis. Total production of heavy leather was 460,000 tones and that of light leather 10,138 million square feet. Approximately 65% of the light leather was used for the manufacture of 4,539 million pairs of shoes with leather uppers. The remaining 35% was used for the manufacture of garments, furniture and travel goods including handbags.
621,000 tones of raw skins from sheep and goats yielded 4,140 million square feet of sheep and goat leather. Part of the sheep leather was used for shoe linings and some goat leather in shoe uppers, but the majority was used for manufacturing a large range of leather products from clothing to wristwatch bands (FAO 1998).
Geographical Shifts in the production of raw materials
Between the early 80s and the mid 90s, world output of bovine hides and skins grew 14%. Growth concentrated in developing countries and contracted in developed regions. However, developed regions still account for more than 50% of the total world production. Latin America is the region with the largest production in the world, 20.6%. Sheepskin production in the world grew by almost 20% during the same period. As in the case of cattle hides, growth was higher in developing countries. Growth in goatskins during the period was 70%, two thirds of which took place in developing countries.
Shifts in Industrial Processing
Schmel resumes the history of the leather industry and its technical development during the last century in the following manner: “Leather and its derived products manufacturing turned into industry by mechanizing the processes. (The history of the leather goods and glove making illustrates clearly the validity of this statement. While shoe factories eagerly adapted machines for a wide range of operations, leather goods makers were reluctant to use other equipment than the cylinder bed sewing machines and therefore stayed behind in productivity.) Application of leather substitutes, modern chemicals and automation -including CAD/CAM/CIM - added more momentum to the development of tanneries and especially shoe producers. Competitiveness depended mainly on the know-how that was equivalent to technology. This process lasted from the beginning of the century to about the last decade” “Tanners were confronted with environmental problems, shoemakers were in search for suitable (flexible) production control mechanisms (e.g. conveyors, rinks, quality assurance, introduction of computers) in the 1970s and 1980s. This is the era of development of production systems capable of meeting the challenges of pollution, quality, efficiency, logistics, and cooperation. Innovations came still from technical knowledge but managerial aspects started to gain importance in practical applications. The last decade of the millennium is about marketing and trading whereby established trade contacts, brands, promotion and financial power are far more valuable assets than technology and related knowledge”(Schmel 1998).
Output of the Tanning and Finishing of hides and skins
Most of the output from the tanning component of the chain is light bovine leather, used to make shoe uppers and other finished goods. The remainder products from the tanning processing stage consist of heavy leather and leather from sheep and goats.
A decline in the production of heavy leather, which had been apparent for several years, was reversed by a 30% increase in the mid 90s, in line with an increase in leather shoe production. The growth in production was highest in the Far East, from 22% of the total world production in 1990 to 36% in 1996. This growth is assigned principally to China who has become the largest heavy leather producer in the world. The output of heavy leather in Europe and the former Soviet Union area decreased while the Near East, Africa and Latin America maintained their level of contribution and some increased (see figure 1).
|
Comments (0)
You don't have permission to comment on this page.